1833년 몽꿋 스님이 발견한 람캄행 석비는 오래된 문명의 증거로서 시암 왕국이 외세 침략을 막아내는 데 중요한 '브랜드 자산'으로 활용되었습니다. 시암은 외교, 개혁, 이미지 관리를 통해 동남아시아에서 유일하게 주권을 지킨 국가로 남았습니다.
번역된 본문
1833년 건기가 시작될 무렵, 몽꿋(Mongkut)이라는 스님이 시암의 옛 수도 수코타이를 향해 길을 떠났다. 수행과 가르침, 종교 의식을 위한 배와 도보 장거리 여행은 몽꿋 같은 스님들에게 흔한 일이었다. 상좌부 불교는 근대 이전 시암의 삶에서 지대한 부분을 차지했으며, 항상 일정 비율의 성인 남성들이 스님으로出家(출가)해 있었다. 스님들이 왕국을 돌아다니면 현지 주민들이 음식, 의복, 숙소를 제공했다. 하지만 몽꿋은 평범한 스님이 아니었다. 그는 라마 2세의 43번째 아들이었다. 라마 2세의 고위 후궁에게서 태어난 그는 지위가 높은 왕자였으며 왕위 계승 후보 중 한 명이었다. 따라서 그는 동료 스님들뿐 아니라 수행원들을 대동하고 여행했을 것이다.
몽꿋이 계승자 중 하나였던 왕국은 현재의 태국 대부분과 라오스, 캄보디아, 말레이시아 일부를 포괄했으며 약 500만 명의 백성을 거느렸다. 이들 대부분은 가난한 쌀 농민이었지만, 시암 최대 도시 방콕은 주요 무역 항구였다. 물 위에 지어진 집들이 늘어선 조밀한 운하망과 다양한 민족으로 구성된 인구가 특징이었다.
번화한 수도와 대조적으로, 수코타이는 이 무렵 대부분 버려진 상태였다. 13세기에서 15세기까지 수코타이는 정치, 문화, 종교의 중심지로 번영했으나, 이후 남쪽의 아유타야, 그리고 18세기에 건립된 방콕에 가려지게 되었다. 몽꿋이 도착했을 때 그를 맞이한 것은 오늘날 방문객들이 보는 것과 같은, 무너져 가는 스투파(종교 건축물), 고요한 불상, 그리고 수백 년간의 혹독한 햇볕과 열대성 비에 풍화된 녹슨 색 벽돌들이었을 것이다.
체류 중 어느 시점에 몽꿋은 놀라운 물건을 발견했다. 약 1미터 높이의 네 면에 특이한 문자가 새겨진 흑색 돌 기둥이었다. 이 돌은 훗날 '람캄행 석비(Ramkhamhaeng Stele)'로 알려지게 된다. 1292년의 것으로 알려진 이 석비는 현존하는 가장 오래된 태국 문자의 예로 자주 인용된다.
몽꿋은 석비를 방콕으로 가져왔고 학자 위원회를 구성해 그 수수께끼 같은 명문을 해독하게 했다. 이들은 알려진 고대 태국어 및 관련 문자들과 비교하고, 언어적 패턴을 분석하며, 박식한 스님들과 협력해 낯선 단어와 문자를 해석했다. 그들이 발견한 것은 놀라웠다. 124줄의 고대 텍스트는 현명한 군주 람캄행이 다스리던 고대 태국 왕국을 이야기하고 있었다. 석비에 따르면 람캄행의 왕국은 문학 전통, 정교한 법·정치 제도, 독립과 주권, 안전한 지리적 경계, 불교적 왕권, 정의로운 통치를 갖추고 있었다.
석비의 발견은 결과적으로 아주 시의적절한 일이었다. 5세기에 걸쳐 유럽 열강은 지구상의 거의 모든 영토를 식민지화했으며, 예외는 한 손으로 꼽을 정도였다. 일본이 가장 잘 알려진 사례다. 시암은 외국의 점령을 막아내고 주권을 유지한 국가로서 어쩌면 그다음으로 분명한 사례지만 훨씬 덜 알려져 있다. 시암은 외교, 개혁, 신중한 이미지 관리의 조합으로 버텨냈다. 오래된 고급 문명의 증거를 제공한 람캄행 석비는 왕국에 꼭 필요한 '브랜드 자산'이었던 것이다.
시암의 버팀
1830년대까지 시암 왕조는 인도에서 뻗어 나오는 영국의 세력을 긴장하게 지켜보고 있었다. 몽꿋의 발견 몇 년 전인 1824~1826년 제1차 영국-미얀마 전쟁에서 영국 포함들은 신성한 이라와디 강을 거슬러 올라가 고대 왕국 미얀마를 굴욕적으로 패배시키고 시암의 오랜 경쟁국에게서 광대한 영토를 할양받아냈다. 동쪽에서는 프랑스 선교사들이 베트남과 캄보디아에서 활동하며 프랑스 식민지 야망과 '문명화 사명(mission civilisatrice)'의 초기 단계를 보여주고 있었다. 하나둘씩 시암의 이웃 국가들이 무너지기 시작했고, 시암은 동남아시아에서 저항하는 마지막 국가로 남게 되었다.
At the beginning of the 1833 dry season, a monk named Mongkut set out for Sukhothai, the old capital of Siam. Long journeys by boat and on foot for study, teaching, and religious observance were common for monks like Mongkut. Theravada Buddhism was a huge part of life in premodern Siam, and at any given time, a small percentage of adult men were ordained as monks. As they traveled around the kingdom, locals provided them with food, clothes, and lodging. But Mongkut was no ordinary monk. He was the 43rd child of King Rama II. Born to one of Rama II’s senior consorts, he was a high-ranking son and in the running to inherit the throne. As such, he would have been traveling with a retinue of attendants as well as fellow monks. The kingdom to which Mongkut was an heir covered most of modern-day Thailand, plus parts of Laos, Cambodia, and Malaysia, and contained around five million subjects. Though most of these subjects were poor rice farmers, Siam’s largest city, Bangkok, was a major trading port, with a dense network of canals lined with houses on stilts, and an ethnically diverse population. The Works in Progress Newsletter Get new articles from Works in Progress delivered to your inbox. Sign up In contrast to the bustling capital, Sukhothai was by this time largely abandoned. From the thirteenth to fifteenth centuries, Sukhothai had flourished as a political, cultural, and religious center, but it had since been eclipsed by Ayutthaya to the south and, since its founding in the eighteenth century, Bangkok. When Mongkut arrived there, he would have been greeted, as visitors are today, by crumbling stupas (religious buildings), serene Buddha statues, and rust-colored brickwork weathered by centuries of blistering sunshine and tropical rains. At some point during his stay, Mongkut came across a remarkable object: a four-sided, black stone monolith, about a meter high and inscribed with an unusual script. The stone would become known as the Ramkhamhaeng Stele. Purported to date from 1292, it is often cited as the oldest surviving example of Thai writing. Mongkut brought the Stele to Bangkok and assembled a committee of scholars to decipher its enigmatic inscription. They compared it to known forms of old Thai and other related scripts, analyzed linguistic patterns, and collaborated with learned monks to interpret unfamiliar words and characters. What they found was extraordinary: the 124 lines of archaic text told of an ancient Thai kingdom ruled by a wise monarch, Ramkhamhaeng. According to the Stele, Ramkhamhaeng’s kingdom combined a literary tradition, a sophisticated legal and political system, independence, sovereignty, secure geographic boundaries, Buddhist kingship, and just rule. The discovery of the Stele was, as it turned out, serendipitous. Over five centuries, European powers colonized virtually every other territory on Earth, with exceptions that can be counted on the fingers of one hand. Japan is the best known example. Siam, perhaps the next clearest case of a state that resisted foreign occupation and retained sovereignty, is much less publicized. Siam held out through a combination of diplomacy, reform, and careful image management. By providing evidence of a longstanding complex civilization, the Ramkhamhaeng Stele was just the sort of brand asset the kingdom needed. The Siamese Holdout By the 1830s, the Siamese court was watching nervously as British power radiated outward from India. Just a few years before Mongkut’s discovery, during the First Burmese War of 1824–1826, British gunboats sailed up the sacred waters of the Irrawaddy River and humiliated the ancient kingdom of Burma, extracting huge territorial concessions from Siam’s long-term rival. To the east, French missionaries were active in Vietnam and Cambodia, representing the earliest phase of France’s colonial ambitions and its mission civilisatrice . One by one, Siam’s neighbors began to fall and it found itself the sole Southeast Asian holdout against European colonialism. The vanquished countries pursued a range of resistance strategies, all of them unsuccessful. Burma fought a series of doomed wars against Britain, only to be annexed. Cambodia willingly allowed itself to become a French protectorate, viewing this as the lesser of several evils after decades of encroachment from neighboring Siam and Vietnam, only for that protection to evolve into colonial rule within French Indochina. Vietnam relied on the country’s historic ties to China to ward off France, but its harsh treatment of missionaries and minorities gave Europeans an easy pretext for intervention. Instead, Siam’s leaders hoped that demonstrating it already had clear markers of civilization would undermine the pretexts for colonization. Even in the nineteenth century, countries did not want to be thought of as engaging in naked land grabs. Successful colonial ventures usually combined ostensibly noble justifications and straightforward power-hungry motivations. Europeans believed that technologically advanced, Christian nations had a moral duty to bring progress to ‘backward’ peoples who lacked proper government, writing systems, and cultural refinement. This ideology created domestic political support and international legitimacy for territorial conquest. Mongkut’s discovery of the Stele was comparable to finding a lost Magna Carta at just the right moment. Siam’s rulers realized that written language was key to civilizational legitimacy in Western eyes, and the inscription provided exactly what they needed: tangible evidence of a tradition of literary sophistication that overturned European assumptions of primitiveness. Diplomacy In 1855, a new British special envoy to Southeast Asia arrived in Bangkok. Sir John Bowring was governor of recently conquered Hong Kong and represented a nation at the height of its powers. By this point, Britain controlled almost a fifth of the world's land mass, produced over half its industrial output , and had the most powerful navy the world had ever seen. Siam, on the other hand, had been in self-imposed relative isolation from the West since 1688, and had recently been accused of dealing contemptuously with British and American trade missions. John Crawfurd, a British envoy, described the Siamese as ‘unusually sordid, insincere and rapacious’. Under Rama III, Siam’s king and Mongkut’s older half-brother, most people thought Siam was headed down the same path as its neighbors. After Rama III died in 1851, Mongkut was crowned king, taking the name Rama IV. Mongkut was popular with the British, who thought him more friendly to their interests than the other contenders for the throne. As a monk, he had studied Western languages, sciences, and technology. He spoke English and Latin and had continuous contact with diplomats and Catholic and Protestant missionaries. He was fascinated by the Western concept of material and technological progress, an idea in stark contrast to Buddhist cosmology’s emphasis on repeated cycles of decay. European diplomats had often found Asian rulers, including Mongkut’s predecessors, to be aloof and disdainful. Arriving in Siam for his meeting with the new king, Bowring would have expected more of the same. Instead, he found a ruler who displayed a sophisticated understanding of the Western world. King Mongkut received Bowring in his private apartments for cigars and wine. They bypassed interpreters and spoke in English. Bowring noted that the king’s library had a vast array of books ranging from Western science to novels by Sir Walter Scott. British imperialists were unaccustomed to negotiating with Asian rulers who could meet them on their own intellectual ground. This was an era in which Thomas Macaulay, the colonial administrator and historian best known for his History of England , could write that ‘a single shelf of a good European library was worth the whole native literature of India and Arabia’. Bowring, however, was willing to believe the Sia