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Hacker News • 5일 전

휴럴풀 세탁기 트랜스미션 직접 수리기

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2/10
핵심 요약

미국 한 사용자가 2007년형 휴럴풀 세탁기가 탈수(스핀)를 하지 않는 고장을 직접 수리한 경험담이다. 구글 검색과 수리 포럼의 도움을 받아 세탁기를 분해한 결과 문제는 가장 분해하기 어려운 부품인 트랜스미션의 '숄더 폴 스터드(shoulder pawl stud)' 파손이었다. 약 23달러의 뉴트럴 드레인 키트를 주문해 수리를 진행하는 내용으로, DIY 가전 수리 커뮤니티의 유용성을 보여준다.

번역된 본문

몇 달 전 우리 집 휴럴풀(Whirlpool) 세탁기가 탈수를 하지 않았다. 다른 기능은 모두 정상이었지만 탈수 기능이 없으니 세탁이 끝난 후 옷이 물에 흠뻑 접은 채 통 바닥에 가라앉아 있어 사실상 쓸모가 없었다. 당연히 내가 가장 먼저 한 일은 구글에 "휴럴풀 세탁기 탈수 안 됨"을 검색한 것이었고, 훌륭한 웹사이트들이 많이 검색됐다. 대부분은 fixitnow.com처럼 지식을 무료로 공유하는 친절한 사람들이 운영하는 수리 웹사이트와 포럼이었다. 나머지는 repairclinic.com처럼 DIY 주부·주부 방문객 아닌 셀프 수리 가정용 부품을 판매하는 회사들이 후원하는 사이트였다. 포럼에서는 항상 가장 흔하고 쉬운 해결책부터 제시하는데, 예컨대 뚜껑 스위치(lid switch)가 그것이었지만 내 문제는 아니었다. 그래서 목록의 다음 항목인 모터의 커플링(coupling)을 확인하기 위해 세탁기를 분해하기 시작했다. 다행히 이런 웹사이트들은 어떤 나사를 어떤 순서로 제거하면 되는지 알려주기 때문에, 그것만 알면 분해 자체는 큰 힘이 들지 않는다. 나는 커플링이 고장 난可能性은 낮다고 봤다. 교반기(agitator)는 여전히 작동하고 있었고, 커플링이 고장 났다면 그것도 작동하지 않았을 것이기 때문이다. 다음으로 클러치/브레이크 기구를 점검했는데 이것도 정상으로 보였다. 마침내 문제는 트랜스미션, 즉 분해가 가장 어려운 부품일 수밖에 없다고 판단했다. 우리 집 세탁실은 차고와 주방 사이 입구의 벽감 같은 공간이라, 세탁기를 완전히 분해해 주방으로 옮겼다.

트랜스미션을 분리한 후, 무거운 오일이 가득 차 있을 것을 알면서도 이를 열어야 하는 상황에 직면했다. 세탁기의 트랜스미션을 분리하려면 교반기에 고정하는 축 상단의 볼트를 제거해야 한다. 그 볼트를 드러내려면 교반기 상단의 플라스틱 캡과 그 아래의 반투명 씰을 벗겨야 한다. 이 반투명 캡에는 오링(O-ring) 씰이 있다. 재조립할 때 제대로 끼워야 물이 볼트 실 안으로 들어가지 않는데, 그렇지 않으면 볼트가 녹슬어 축과 융착된다.

트랜스미션 상단 커버를 고정하는 모든 나사를 조심스럽게 제거하고 오일을 병에 배출했다. 상당히 지저분한 작업이 될 것 같아 비닐 정비 장갑을 꼈다. 트랜스미션의 복잡함에 놀랐다. 모터의 회전 방향 외에는 아무런 입력 없이 여러 기능을 수행해야 하기 때문이다. 예를 들어 변속기나 솔레노이드 없이 교반, 탈수, 중립 상태 전환이 모두 이루어져야 한다. 같은 모터가 반대쪽으로 나온 구동축 일부를 통해 동시에 펌프도 구동한다. 트랜스미션은 '래크 리테이너(rack retainer)'라 불리는 부품 위에 폴(pawl), 기어, 캠으로 이루어진 꽤 복잡한 플레이트를 사용한다. 나는 모터를 앞뒤로 회전시키는 상황을 시뮬레이션하며 탈수 모드에서 교반 모드로 전환하는 것은 가능했지만, 탈수 모드로는 들어가지 않았다. 그때 '숄더 폴 스터드(shoulder pawl stud)'라는 부품이 나사산 부분에서 부러져 래크 리테이너가 빈돌아가고 있다는 것을 깨달았다. 이 폴 스터드는 축 역할과 함께 플레이트가 탈수 기어와 함께 회전하게 만드는 역할을 하는데, 나사산이 메인 기어에 박힌 채 부러져 있었던 것이다. 그래서 새 폴 스터드를 구하고, 구멍에 박혀 있는 나사산을 빼내는 방법을 찾아야 했다. 나사산에 록킹 컴파운드(고정제)가 발려져 있어 쉽게 나오지 않을 것이 확실했다. 폴 스터드는 단일 부품으로 판매되지 않았지만, Repairclinic.com의 '뉴트럴 드레인 팩(Neutral Drain Pack)'이라는 키트가 여러 부품을 포함하고 있었는데, 서로 다른 스터드 2개가 들어 있었다. 휴럴풀이 신형 모델용으로 나사산을 강화했기 때문인데, 이 부품이 약점이었음이 분명하기 때문일 것이다. 덕분에 부러진 스터드를 뽑다가 나사산을 망가뜨려도, 더 큰 스터드와 신형 래크 리테이너에 맞춰 드릴로 구멍을 뚫고 탭을 만들면 됐다. 아내가 세탁물을 들고 세탁소로 향하는 동안, 나는 온라인으로 부품을 주문했다. 뉴트럴 드레인 키트는 배송비 6달러를 포함해 약 23달러였다. 그동안 나는 시도했다.

원문 보기
원문 보기 (영어)
A few months ago our whirlpool washer wouldn’t spin. It did everything else, but it was pretty worthless without the spin function because the clothes would just be sitting at the bottom of it completely soaked after a wash. Of course, the first thing I did was go to Google and type in “Whirlpool washer won’t spin” and got a lot of hits on some great websites. Most of them were repair websites and forums sponsored by kind individuals who freely share their knowledge such as fixitnow.com . Others are sponsored by companies who sell parts to DIY homeowners, like repairclinic.com . The forums always suggest the most common and easy fixes first, like the lid switch, which wasn’t my problem. So I had to start disassembling the washer because the next item on the list was the coupling on the motor. Fortunately, these websites have directions on how to get the washer open, which takes very little effort, as long as you know which screws to remove and in what order. I knew that the coupling was unlikely to be the failed item because the agitator was still working and it would be unlikely that a failed coupling would allow that to work. Then I started looking at the clutch/brake mechanism and that also looked OK. Finally, I figured it had to be the transmission, one of the hardest items to remove. I had the entire washer torn apart and moved to the kitchen because our laundry room is more of an alcove in the entryway between the garage and the kitchen. After pulling the transmission, I was faced with the prospect of taking it apart, knowing it would be filled with heavy oil. To pull your washer's transmission, you need to remove a bolt at the top of the shaft holding it to the agitator. To expose that bolt, you have to pull off the plastic cap on the top of agitator as well as another translucent seal below it. Note the translucent cap has an o-ring seal on it. Make sure to put it back in properly when you re-assemble the washer to keep water out of that bolt's compartment or it will rust and fuse with the shaft. I carefully took out all the screws holding on the transmission's top cover and drained the oil into a jar. This was going to a really messy job and so I put on some vinyl mechanics gloves. I was amazed at the complexity of the transmission. It has to perform several functions, all without any input other than the direction the motor. For instance, it has to agitate, spin, and also go into neutral without any shifters or solenoids. The same motor is simultaneously running the pump from a portion of the drive shaft that comes out the other end. The transmission uses a rather complex plate of pawls, gears, and cams on something called the ‘rack retainer’. I was trying to simulate spinning the motor forward and backward and thus I could shift it from spin mode to agitate mode, but I couldn’t get it into spin. It was then that I realized that something called a ‘shoulder pawl stud’ was broken off at its threads and the rack retainer was spinning freely. This pawl stud works as an axle and also as a way of getting the plate to spin along with the spin gear, but it was broken with its threads embedded in the main gear. So I had to find a new pawl stud and figure out a way to extract the threads from the hole they were in. I was pretty sure that the threads had some locking compound on them and they weren’t going to come out easily. The pawl stud wasn’t available as a separate part, but there was something called the Neutral Drain Pack from Repairclinic.com which included a lot of parts, including 2 different studs, since Whirlpool evidently beefed up the threads for the newer models, no doubt because it was a weak point. The upside to that is that if I ruined the threads extracting the broken stud, I could drill and tap it for the larger stud and newer rack retainer. So as my wife headed off to the laundry mat with a load of wash, I order the parts on line. The neutral drain kit was about $17 + $6 shipping. In the meantime, I tried to drill the screw threads out of the main drive gear. I broke a drill bit doing it, but got enough of a hole down through the middle of the broken screw shaft that I thought I’d have success with an ‘easy out’. I took it into work and borrowed an easy out and with the help of an arbor press to apply pressure to the easy out, I extracted the broken screw without doing any damage to the threads. A few days later, the parts arrived. The kit contained a lot more parts than I needed. I replaced all the old parts with new ones, figuring after 15 years of service, there was no point in reassembling things with old parts when I had new ones right there. Getting everything back together required some head scratching, but after thinking it through, I was able to manually operate the transmission and check the agitate and neutral modes. After a little fiddling everything went back together and I ran a cycle through without clothes and was very happy when the spin mode began working again. Now it’s been working for a few years, I figured that the $23 and my time was worth it because if I had a repairman do it, I’m sure it would have been over $300 because he would have likely replaced the whole transmission. That would be beyond the value of the washer. It was also better than throwing it away and buying a new one for somewhere between $600-900. I generally don’t fix things myself just for the savings because if you consider my time, it's not really saving me that much. I do it more for the educational experience and the satisfaction of knowing that if it ever breaks again, I can choose to either fix it myself or buy a new one, if we think it’s time for its retirement. I’ve included the meager set of instructions for the Neutral Drain Pack in pdf format here . UPDATE: 2009-01-07 I continue to get comments and emails on this posting. I just got one asking about getting the transmission apart and so I've uploaded a new picture that shows what a messy job this is. Click on it for a higher resolution image. The snap ring (shown next to the screw driver laying on the newspaper) needs to be removed from the shaft to get the top cover off of it. I can't recall if I had the proper snap ring pliers or if I used needle nose pliers ‘in reverse' to spread open the snap ring by its holes. I managed to save all the oil and reuse it afterward, but if you lose some or it looks dirty you can get more from an appliance service center or use SAE 90 weight gear oil if you can't find a service center. There is also the possibility that your washer is caked with mud, so if the basket won't spin, it may be clutch that is worn or can't overcome the friction of mud caked between the basket and the tub like the image below: This photo was sent to me by a reader who found mud stuck between the basket and tub. His washer wouldn't spin because the clutch couldn't overcome the friction caused by the mud. If your spin cycle is intermittent, then this could be the potential cause of it. Another resource you may find useful if you've gotten this far is this .pdf file for the service manual for a Whirlpool direct drive washer . It's got the schematics, troubleshooting instructions, parts list, etc., for the whirlpool washer. Share this: Twitter Facebook You may also like: Fixing Dodge Durango Transmission Problems by Replacing Sensors Panasonic Phone Cannot Find Base - solution Fixing a broken latch on the Yaesu YSK-100 Separation Kit How to replace surface elements on an elecric range